Martin Margiela’s presence is subtle but ultimately shapes fashion trends years after his collections have hit the runway. His designs challenge us the viewer/wearer — What is fashion? Is it only fashion if it’s wearable? — and often resemble works of art rather than sexy cocktail dresses. Michael Kors he is not, but I would argue that his innate ability to conceptualize what fashion can be/do is much more impressive than creating a 60 piece collection every season that can walk itself from the runway to the shelves.

Decide for yourself by checking out his Spring/Summer 2009 RTW collection (the stockinged faces remind of Sabina Sciubba from Brazilian Girls) at Style.com. Below are some of favorites:

All photos: Style.com